Bac Ha Sunday Market

In the rugged mountains of northwestern Vietnam, the town of Bắc Hà holds a big, bright and busy market every Sunday. Attracting hundreds of colourfully dressed ethnic minorities from the surrounding countryside, this market is not only a draw for locals, it’s a big hit with foreign and domestic tourists too. On the one hand, Bắc Hà market is a fascinating spectacle: a superb example of a traditional minority market in Vietnam’s wild northern mountains. On the other hand, it’s a tourist circus, where minority peoples are often treated like performing animals, and much of the financial profit finds its way into the hands of the majority ‘Kinh’ Vietnamese, not the minorities. It can be a confusing and, sometimes, unsettling experience. One thing’s for certain: the increasing number of tourists is changing Bắc Hà Sunday market. It remains to be seen whether this will be for better or for worse. Halong bay cruise Vietnam

Colourfully dressed ethnic minorities, Bắc Hà MarketMarket colour: Bắc Hà is a mecca for the region’s colorfully dressed ethnic minorities

Early mornings in Bắc Hà, around 800m above sea-level, are often misty and cold. Whatever the weather conditions, the activity starts shortly after dawn at the marketplace. A two minute walk from the town square, Bắc Hà market covers a larger area than any other minority market in Vietnam. There are thousands of people and hundreds of stalls. It’s a unique spectacle. The produce is varied, fresh and colourful. The minority women and girls look fantastic in their traditional clothing. The men are just as intriguing: drinking various local liquors, smoking local tobaccos from bamboo pipes, slurping local noodles, and exchanging local gossip. It’s impossible not to be drawn into the vortex of this lively, dazzling Sunday market. Vietnam Mekong river tours

The breakfast crowd, Bắc Hà MarketThe breakfast crowd: soup, rice liquor, and ‘Lao’ tobacco at 7am, Bắc Hà Market

But it isn’t just a local market anymore: it’s a tourist market. Now days, trinket and garment kiosks surround the original market stalls. The products – including crockery, scarves, statuettes, and shawls – are very attractive and beautifully made. But, it’s immediately apparent that these kiosks are managed by majority ‘Kinh’ Vietnamese people, not ethnic minorities, and that their customers are tourists, not locals. North Vietnam tours packages

Calls of ‘You buy something!’ echo around the market, shouted in English every time a foreigner passes by a stall. Brief bargaining takes place between foreign tourists and Vietnamese stall owners. After the sale is made the Vietnamese stall owners shout to each other in Vietnamese, bragging about how much money they fleeced the foreigners for.

Bac Ha Sunday Market

Attractive garments aimed at touristsEmpty until the tour groups arrive, these garments stalls are aimed at tourists not locals

Meanwhile, minority peoples buy and sell the less lucrative produce – meat, fish, vegetables, agricultural appliances, live animals (and a large amount of home-brewed rice wine). Most tourists don’t find these products as intriguing – and certainly not as attractive – as the garments and other souvenir-suitable items on sale at the Vietnamese ‘Kinh’ stalls. Thus, a large amount of the tourist buck spent at Bắc Hà market fails to make it into minority people’s pockets. So how do ethnic minorities – who are significantly poorer than Vietnamese ‘Kinh’ – benefit from the massive tourist interest in the Sunday market?

Local liquor portioned out, Bắc Hà MarketLocal liquor for sale: unlikely to attract the tourist buck

Attention, whether wanted or unwanted, seems to be one answer to the above question. On my last visit to the market, a lady from the Flower Hmong, the largest minority group in the area, got angry at me when I stepped too close to her red chillies, which were laid out on the ground. It seemed a disproportionate reaction to me so I made my feelings known to her. As I moved away, another traveller came up and shoved a 10 inch camera lens right into her face, while she made a sale to another Flower Hmong woman. He made no eye contact, no attempt to communicate, not even a smile. He took his pictures and left without buying anything – what tourist is going to buy red chillies at Bac Ha market?

Camera pointing at Bắc Hà MarketClose up: who needs a tripod when you can use a local’s head

After that, I began to notice the big cameras all over the market. Giant lenses pointed right up into minority peoples’ faces, as if they were no more than zoo animals, incapable of feeling self-conscious or offended or that their personal space had been intruded upon. What’s more, there was very little interaction between the photographers and their subjects: no attempt to make them feel at ease or ask if they minded having their picture taken. Perhaps, I thought to myself, there’s a lot to be angry about if you’re a minority woman selling red chillies at Bac Ha market.

Photographer's dream? Bắc Hà MarketBắc Hà Market is a photographer’s dream, but there’s a lack of respect for their subject.

By 10am, as busloads of travellers on day trips from Sapa arrive, tourists come close to outnumbering locals. The market begins to feel like a farce, a Disney market, a recreation of a traditional market: a fake market. However, you can escape the camera-wielding crowd by wandering to the meat, fish and poultry section, where most people don’t venture because the sights, sounds and smells aren’t so attractive. The hot food section is also wonderful. Even though it’s under the full gaze of dozens of camera lenses, most people stop short of sitting down at one of the wooden benches and ordering one of the steaming, hearty bowls of soup. But do this and you’ll actually be partaking in this real, live market, not just spectating. The food is excellent and cheap, and you’re likely to be invited by fellow diners to toke on their bamboo pipes and shoot back their rice liquor.

The hot food section, Bắc Hà MarketLots of fun and interaction with locals can be had at the superb hot food section of the market

In general, I don’t feel comfortable at Bắc Hà Sunday market. I like it and loath it. After all, I am one of the hundreds of camera lenses at this market (the photos in this article are proof of that). I didn’t buy any red chillies from the minority woman I offended, and I was tempted to purchase one of the souvenir trinkets from the ‘Kinh’ stalls. Like most tourists, I don’t like to think of myself as a tourist, but Bắc Hà market reminds me that I am. It would be nice if more tour companies employed local minority people as guides around the market. This would produce a few jobs for local people and it would encourage foreigner-minority interaction through translations provided by the local guides. To see the market at its best, get here before 9am. To give something back to the market and the people who make it happen, buy some of the exotic fruit on offer, try some of the local liquor, wolf down a bowl of the local soup, and ask before taking a photo.

Top 5 Foods in Hue

Top 5 Foods in Hue
1. Bún bò 
30,000VND @5 Nguyễn Du, Huế

Now what is the first thing one should eat in Hue? Can’t really go wrong with the most famous dish of this city: Bun Bo Hue. Following the recommendation of a local friend who is also an expert in Hue eateries, we arrived at the small bun bo stand in a tiny street; typical Hue style. The place was packed with people just exactly what we had expected and we even had to wait a bit to get a table.

When we thought about eating bun bo in Hue, we expect it to be really spicy and hot. To our surprise, the steamy bowl of bun bo we tasted was not spicy at all but rather, very mild and naturally sweet. It was so good but at the same time quite different from what we usually have in Danang. This is why we should eat a dish at its birth place: your previous concept of a dish and the real dish itself might be two very different versions. Halong bay tours Vietnam

Top 5 Foods in Hue

2. Bánh khoái 
20,000VND (each) @6 Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Huế

The restaurant we went to have bánh khoái is very famous locally, it’s been running for decades. Basically bánh khoái is a smaller version of bánh xèo, served with a moderately similar sauce and is eaten without the Danang’s “wrap and roll” style. It is crispier than bánh xèo and instead of pork toppings, it has toppings made from chả along with shrimp and bean sprouts. An interesting savory snack, but for 20kVND each – it was quite expensive. Mekong river tours Vietnam

3. Hue’s ‘bánh’ medley (bánh bèo, bánh nậm, bánh bột lọc…)
~80,000VND (whole tray) @Hàng Me -12 Võ Thị Sáu, Huế
Then it was time to visit another popular dish in Danang but also has Hue origins: the famous combo of different kinds of bánh (cakes). One major difference of the Hue version, or the version of the place we went to, was that the bánh nậm and bánh bột lọc here are wrapped in lá dong (phrynium leaves), instead of banana leaves like Da Nang’s versions. As a result, the cakes inside have a very unique scent. Another thing that caught my attention was that the dried shrimp toppings here are exceptionally well done and are not something one could easily find in Da Nang. Centre Vietnam tours

4. Bún hến, Cơm hến
8000VND @Nhỏ – 28 Phạm Hồng Thái, Huế (morning)
Bún hến (tiny clams vermicelli salad) is another authentic Hue dish that is very hard to find elsewhere. It is the Hue equivalent of Danang’s bún mắm with tiny clams (hến) instead of pork, fried pork skin, lots of greens, herbs and shrimp paste is used instead of anchovy fish sauce. And just like bún mắm, the dish is very cheap (only 8,000VND) but tasted insanely good.

Cơm hến (tiny clams with rice and soup) is quite similar to bún hến but with a bit of soup. Bún hến is better in my opinion.

5. Bánh ướt thịt quay
100,000VND (2 persons) @Bà Sửu – National Route, 25km from Hue (if you travel from Da Nang to Hue, the restaurant is on your right, after you’ve passed Truồi bridge)

We had this dish at a very famous stall on the national route between Hue and Danang. Basically it was just rice rolls (bánh cuốn, or bánh ướt like how we call it in the central region) but the real shining star here is the accompanied roasted pork. It was so crispy and soft and juicy and had a really really nice smell. This eatery is favourited by many long distance travelers along the national route.

Mui Ne Sand & Water

A friend of mine once commented, “So you live on a houseboat?” “Yeah, kinda… It’s an ocean of sand under us. It’s a sand dune beach.”

When you live in Mui Ne, you become more and more aware of living in a sea of change. Development, politics, tourism… but especially the environment. Everyone talks about the “microclimate” here, but we all keep trying to figure out what that really means. In Muine, we live on sand. Wet sand, dry sand, clean sand… dusty sand. We buy and sell it. We shovel it. We suck it up and spit it out with machines. We love it so much and when it goes, we miss it. Like an old and endearing friend, it always comes back. South Vietnam tours

Fifty kilometers inland sand seems to tip out of the mountains and in a sluice between the rocky points of the Cham towers to the southwest, and the peninsula that holds the town of Muine to the east and north, this sand pours into the south China Sea (called The East Sea in Vietnam). Wind picks up sand, grains at a time, and takes them up towards the mountains again. From the mountains to the sea, it’s a big sluice. We live on a fifty kilometer deep beach. Dragon Pearl Junk Halong

The sand gets hot and creates a “heat draught” that pulls air off the ocean and makes Muine one of the best and most predictable wind sport spots in the world. Even as sand inland gets hot, the wind from the sea keeps the temperature near perfect along the coast. If the temperature drops for some reason, the warm air over the sand dunes seems to fall back towards the sea keeping it perfect. The heat creates a bubble and a lot of the stormy weather that comes to the south of Vietnam just seems to wrap around us. We often sit in the sun during the rainy season watching dramatic storms over the ocean. Often when we drive to Phan Thiet, a line of water on the highway shows where the rain begins and motorcycles are pulled over to put on their raincoats. Overall, we have the dryest and best weather in Vietnam. BASSAC CRUISE

Mui Ne Sand & Water

The sand under us swirls and stretches and flows. There are days each year when a person sitting on a deck chair at Joe’s Café will be looking eye to eye with someone walking on the beach while at another time the beach will have disappeared completely and the ocean laps or crashes our patios and walls. The beach sometimes will go for a couple hundred meters out at low tide, at others it is gone completely. When you enter the sea, you might be able to walk through the shallow seas for a couple hundred meters or you might find yourself over your head in just a few meters. Where’s the beach? You’re on top of it. Nature thinks it just put it here and will pick it up later. We’re squaters to nature. We’re not going anywhere! Let the great contest and cooperation continue!

White sand dominates and what we call the “White Sand Dunes” is a special place and ecosystem. People stop at the “Red Sand Dunes” as well and the hike up the “Fairy Stream” is a must as a mixture of sands is cut by flowing water Grand Canyon style. Red sand we associate with iron ore. Black sand is heavier than white sand and is associated with titanium and titanium mining. Black sand stays out of sight until you walk on the white beaches, your feet sink in and a bit sticks to your feet.

One of the other great benefits to our microclimate is the currents that for most of the year keep all trash away and our beach pristine and water clear. There is no rip current here to take you out making our beach safer than many, but you might get a couple resorts further than you thought in a hurry as it takes you down the beach.

Phan Thiet beach and sanddune

It’s so confusing because even as the beach, the actual sand, will go up or down a couple meters in an hour, it’s hard to remember what it was like. People brag or lament. We hear about global warming, changes in rainfall, cutting down the mangroves in the Mekong, development… greening of the sanddunes with farms and golfcourses… we hear about the factories and watch long peirs, jetties or holding walls go out into the sea to control sand. We debate the designs of our seawalls and watch some fail. We think of the sand going up and down the coast and sometimes in and out of the sea, but of course it’s moving vertically as well as we build and change the ground water table.

I often think of a glass of water stirred and dropping a little blue ink in to watch it swirl up and down and around. I think the sand is doing that below us and around us. But of course that isn’t perfect either… sand when dry is solid or dusty, sand wet is even harder until it gets wet enough, and then it liquifies.

One thing is for sure, we love our microclimate. We love the heavily touristed winter months when wind and weather are perfect and people choose us instead of chilly Natrang and Danang. We love the rainy seasons when it rains- but rarely and we love how the air still has that after rain freshness. We love our beach and pine for it when it is gone. We live in constant change.

Do I need a visa to travel to Vietnam

Vietnam Visa Requirements

For any traveler a trip planning should start not from booking a flight ticket or arranging a hotel, but from checking the visa policy of the country he would like to visit. Some nationalities can enter the territory of Vietnam without visa. But for majority of the countries it is required. The visitors can obtain a visa from one of the Vietnamese diplomatic missions or via agency on arrival. Also a passport valid for at least 6 months is necessary. Check the policy before you start travelling to avoid problems on the Vietnamese border. Southern Vietnam with extension to Cambodia 10 days

Visa Exemption
Currently 17 nationalities can visit Vietnam without visa for different time periods. In 2014 it was proposed to allow citizens of European Union, the United States of America, Canada, Australia, Hong Kong and Taiwan to enter the country without visa as well. But in September 2014 this proposal was rejected. Vietnamese government extended the list of the visa exemption countries only for Australia, France, Germany, India and the UK. SONG XANH CRUISE

List of the countries that do not require a visa to Vietnam (with a duration of staying): Image Cruise
Brunei (14 days)
Cambodia (30 days)
Denmark (15 days)
Finland (15 days)
Indonesia (30 days)
Japan (15 days)
Kyrgyzstan (30 days)
Laos (30 days)
Malaysia (30 days)
Myanmar (14 days)
Norway (15 days)
Philippines (21 days)
Russia (15 days)
Singapore (30 days)
South Korea (15 days)
Sweden (15 days)
Thailand (30 days)

Do I need a visa to travel to Vietnam

Visit to Phú Quốc Island
Phu Quoc is designated as a Special Economic Zone and the Vietnamese government are allowing tourists to stay on the island for up to 30 days without requiring a Vietnam Visa. To be able to enter Phu Quoc without visa you should arrive to the island from any other foreign country and land at Phu Quoc International Airport. If you are transiting from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, then you must board your flight to Phu Quoc from the international terminal in order to receive your exemption. Also it is possible to come to the island by a cruise ship sailing from the other international ports. However, if you are planning to continue your trip around the country, then visa obtaining is required.

Visa on-arrival
In order to get your visa on arrival, first of all, you should receive an approval letter. First of all, you  have to fill in the Online Application Form and pay the service fee. Normally, within 2-3 working days you will get your Visa approval letter issued and stamped by the Vietnamese Immigration Department. The same document will be sent to Vietnam Immigration checkpoints at the international airports, wo when you arrive, the documents will be prepared for you. With the approval letter you can obtain a visa at airports in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City or Da Nang for a maximum stay up to 3 months.

Types and cost
The fee depends on a type of visa you would like to obtain and your duration of staying. There are two types of visas in Vietnam: single entry and multiple entry. The service fee for applying starts at USD 17. Stamping fee depends on your type of visa:
Single-entry visas – USD 45
Multiple-entry visas
Valid for less than 01 month – USD 65
Valid for less than 06 months – USD 95
Valid for 6 months or more – USD 135
Transfer of validity of visas or temporary residence from expired passports to new passports – USD 15
(PLEASE NOTE – THESE ARE THE PRICES AT TIME OF WRITING)


Visa extension
Due to recent changes in Visa laws starting 01/01/2015, Visa renewals have become difficult, expensive and sometimes impossible. The rules relating to Visa renewals seem to be unclear at time of writing, with some tourists paying up to $380US to extend their Visa an extra 3 Months. After making phone calls to Immigration, no one can give a clear answer on the renewal process and price.


IMPORTANT
Always ask for information at the Vietnamese diplomatic missions in your countries to check the current visa policy and other relevant and reliable updates.